A soft and slouchy unstructured jacket with ingenious built-in pockets and relaxed straight/slim lined pants with an origami pleat that tapers the width of the hem.
Easy to fit and wear, the 2 pieces work together and as separates, both can be interpreted in casual to dressy fabrics.
This blog concentrates on the jacket, the next blog will zero in on the pants.
|The orchid jacket is a light tropical weight wool broadcloth with a bit of stretch from my stash (found as a remnant in Paris). The pants are a gray lightly textured Erminguildo Zegna wool men's suiting from our collection last season, sold out.|
|The ombre rust stripe is a poly taffeta from my stash, and the cocoa/taupe pants are a stretch poly crepe also from my stash.|
|The line drawings show the jacket which is loose fitting and boxy (looks like a 'swing' jacket in the sketch, but it hangs straight. The jacket has a funnel neckline that stands slightly away from the body.|
My studio shots of the jackets
|The back detail is not actually functional pockets, but carries the seaming detail from the front around to the back.|
|Katherine came up with this clever buttonhole to use with small buttons. It is one long buttonhole with a bar tack in the center and openings cut in at either end leaving the middle connected.|
|The orchid jacket uses oversized vintage celluloid buttons.|
#1: Taffeta (pure poly)
The first go, this fabric was an experiment. A crisp taffeta in a favorite sagey green (sold out). Probably a lining (at least I bought it with that in mind), it is a crisp and papery polyester. Malleable, I hoped it would crush and crinkle. It does crinkle, but reverts to flat no matter how it is crumpled up.
No wrinkling, and it makes a sound when I move.
There is a word that describes the rustling sound made by taffeta:
|Vintage shell buttons placed in pairs.|
|The pocket detail shows up in the stripe.|
There are actually 2 functional pockets on each side, one off to the side back behind the main pocket. The dimensional facing is stitched down to the jacket at the very end of the sewing.
|The dimensional facing in back is stitched down at intervals. These are not actually pockets across the back, just carrying the effect from the front all the way around.|
#2: Silvery Linen Tweed
Soft tweedy linen with a hammered silver surface.
I made this jacket to wear in Paris and wore it a lot.
In this fabric the jacket was almost like a sweater, soft and cozy, and the neutral color goes with all my gray and black pants,
layered neatly under a trench/raincoat (that pattern is coming out in the next Vogue release).
|In this fabric the funnel neck takes on a life and sculptural quality all its own.|
No interfacing, wanted to keep the softness.
Vintage shell buttons have a silver wash.
Wearing the jacket, having lunch at Le Progrès our favorite bistro for lunch while shopping for fabric in the Montmartre district in Paris.
Everyone says we are crazy to go to New York in August, but Katherine and I are headed there the first week in August for fun and fabric buying. Visits with our nephew and 2 fashionista nieces are scheduled. (Marissa works for J Crew, her sister Madeline interns for Maria Cornejo and is going to FIT in the fall). Both want to come fabric shopping with us. Can't wait!
To celebrate the new pattern coming out this week, I had to make the new jacket for summer into fall.
It will be hot outside and air conditioned inside, so something light and floaty seems a good idea.
After auditioning many other fabrics and many trips back and forth to the ArtBarn,
I settled on our Captain Midnight linen and it is perfect, just a touch heavier than hanky linen, wrinkles just a touch in a good way so it will not require pressing, feels cool and will layer over a little tank.
This version more like a shirt than a jacket.
I played with the funnel neck as I sewed, lowered the back collar about 1" and lowered the front.
It was touch and go for a while, had to make a new facing, but now I really like that it stands away from the neckline so it will be cool.
French seams on the sleeves as they will always be rolled up.
|Vintage shell buttons placed close together.|
|The pattern pieces for the pocket facing go together like this.|
Finish the edges as described in the pattern.
|Pattern pieces for the front. Front piece is sewn to the lower back piece.|
|This photo shows the front and side back sewn together, and here the facings are ready to be sewn...note that the edges are finished.|
|Pinned and ready to sew. I place the pins right on the seam line and remove them as I sew.|
Vogue traditionally puts only 3-4 fabric suggestions on the pattern envelope. The jacket would work well in many different fabrics: taffeta, stretch wovens, denim, suiting weight wools, linen, cotton shirting, quilting fabric, dupioni/shantung, stable knits like ponte.
I went out to the ArtBarn to see what we currently have in stock that would work well in this jacket, see the list below with hot links.
All are currently in stock at the time of this posting.
To be continued....
Happy Summer Sewing!