ArtBarn Fall Pattern Picks
Here at marcytilton.com we've been seeing our customers' orders shifting to fall, and we are doing the same, sewing for this transitional season and cooler weather ahead. We all love to sew, wear and share our projects with each other. This selection features patterns chosen by our ArtBarn team (Marcy, Katherine, Diane, Beth and Shelley), and Gwen Spencer who was here sewing with Marcy last weekend. When Gwen comes we sometimes have a spontaneous sewing lesson too!
Beth's pick is Butterick 6241, which we now all love for the lovely draped pockets, cozy collar, zipper front and flattering comfortable shape. Make it in a jersey or light weight ponte.
I like the cozy layered design on this top, can see it in jersey or one of the new soft and cozy French terrys or a collage combo of different fabrics. Keep it soft and drapey, this will feel so cozy on a cool day, a great every day casual look to wear with jeans or skinny pants.
The fishtail godet at the back is a flattering detail, (might be a tad too long tho), and the princess lines are flattering. A good choice for French terry, jersey, light weight ponte or light weight sweater knits.
Gwen Spencer's choice. She is going to do a rendition of Katherine's tiered knit jacket, maybe in a ponte or French terry, 'something not too thick' is what she said. Can't wait to see what she comes up with, will post in a future blog. As shown here, done in 'quilted knits', not actually stitched, but the quilted texture is woven in. Good for fleece, ideal for double sided fabrics too, you can sew the tiers using a lapped seam so the raw edge reveals the under side. Read more on Katherine's 3 Tier Jacket blog.
Beth made this in organic hemp knit from last season, and wears it as a jacket over a t-shirt and jeans. This is a shape/design you can wear as a dress or cut it a bit larger and wear as a light jacket or coat. Ponte, French terry and stable sweater knits are all good fabrications, and it makes a good blank canvas for combining different fabrics too. Read Katherine's article on the kicky pocket she added to this coat dress in the current issue of Vogue Pattern Magazine.
We all love this Sandra tunic/vest. I can see it kicked back and casual or dressed up for the city. Sandra Betzina's vest/tunic is a standout you could make in many different fabrics. The tunic can work in soft fluid knits and wovens, from silk to jersey, and the vest could be done in ponte, silk taffeta, jacquard or stretch wovens. I love jacquards textured stretch brocades for this piece too. Flattering and slimming to boot. Sandra always includes great tips and techniques in her instructions. A star of the season!
Koos passed away last year and his patterns are sure to become collector's pieces. This little dress is so simple and clean lined to embellish or not, and you could easily shorten to a T-shirt or lengthen, wear as shown or with leggings and narrow pants. An instant classic you could interpret in ponte, light sweater knits, wool jersey, French terry, even sweatshirt fleece. Makes an update of the classic sweater dress.
Shelley's choice is this figure flattering slim lined sheath dress which she will make in a ponte. Her plan is to make ¾ sleeves, eliminate the back darts and give it just a touch more ease so she can wear it for every day....and she will layer a cardigan or shrug over it for cooler days.
Sandra Betzina always does great pants, and I like this one as an alternative to jeans. The style is a take on the classic navy sailor pant, traditionally were made in wool with 13 buttons representing the 13 original states. I had an original navy issue pair back in the day. Use a stretch woven, though I think they would also work in a stable beefy ponte.
My most recent pattern is a duo of tunics, both with seaming detailing that are easy to sew and fit and flattering to wear. Make in light weight jersey, French terry, ponte and sweater knits. A natural for combining different knits too.
I keep making versions of the layering tunics, these are my go to tops for everyday and travel. Some of the fabrics I've used and can recommend: rayon/lycra, ponte, ITY knits, novelty knits. I used our Parisian microfiber for the green and blue versions on the pattern envelope. I used a mesh for the sleeveless angle tunic to wear as an under layer so the lacy edges show at the neck and hem.
Kathryn Brynne's vest and top are so appealing and versatile, would work in a wide range of fabrics, dressy to casual, wovens and knits, lightly crisp or uber soft. We haven't made a version yet, but it is on the wish list. I really like the layering potential of these pieces too, they will slide easily under a jacket or coat. For travel, I'd build in hidden inside pockets. The basic shape lends itself well to surface design too.
Shown as a sleeveless top on the pattern envelope, Katherine's asymmetrical sculptural vest is one to make again and again, to dress up or down. I can see this in a nylon or silk taffeta or silk dupioni. To kick back a more dressy silk taffeta or dupioni, I toss it in the washer and dryer, the fabric emerges with a more matte surface and overall crinkles. Take it out of the dryer before it is bone dry and smooth so the crinkles are even overall. Pressing during sewing will smooth things out, but you can crush it to bring out the texture. This would work well in a fall cotton, from shirting to jacket weight, and would be like a sweater vest in a knit. In a soft jersey, it will hang closer to the body, in a more substantial knit, would have a sculptural effect. This is the perfect garment to wear for long distance travel too....build in hidden pockets for glasses, boarding pass, passport etc. Katherine says, 'watch the inside collar as both sides show'.
Katherine used ponte knits for both versions on the pattern envelope, but thinks it would work in a stretch woven as well. I see the sleeveless version as a fall jumper, just the thing to wear in the studio on a cool day, super comfortable, flattering and pockets too. Use a zipper or a row of buttons for a closure, and people tell us they have adapted the pattern eliminating the closure entirely and cutting the center front on a fold. Shorten to wear as a tunic with leggings. Raise the neckline for cooler weather or add a soft cowl. Read more on Katherine's Versatile Dress blog.
The pants are slim lined and very flattering. The pattern envelope says that the pants have side front pockets, but this is an error....it is the back side seam wrapping around to the front. However, I add front drop in pockets inside the waistband. I used a ponte for the tomato red pair, and our Pale Gray Parisian microfiber knit for the gray pair. These are my go-to travel pants made in Black Parisian microfiber knit. Read more about this pattern in my recent Cozy Coat & Euro Pant blog.