Saturday, February 28, 2015

2015 Expo Vogue/Butterick Fashion Show

This newsletter features some of the garments from the fashion show that Katherine and I put together for the Puyallup Sewing Expo.

At the show, our commentary is spontaneous and unscripted, and we love to pepper it with sewing and fabric tips and tales. It is a pleasure to share this with you, and I deeply appreciate being able to work and play alongside my sister Katherine.

Happy creating from my studio to yours,

 The Handout
Our handout for fashion show attendees.  Drag and drop the handout to your desktop to print it out.  I am stumped why the background appears darker, finally gave up on a fix for this.  

The Fabrics

Some of the fabrics used in the garments shown here are from our online fabric store. In preparation for the Sewing Expo, I've been buying and stockpiling fabric for months, At the show there will be some duplication with what is online, AND lots of different new fabrics that are not posted yet. All the new things that come back from the show will be posted gradually afterwards. New fabrics arrive all the time, and Katherine and I will go on a buying trip in mid March to stock up for the season ahead,

In the ArtBarn fabric studio, new fabrics are posted as they arrive. Whenever possible, they are posted chronologically in the NEW FABRICS section. I like to organize groupings of color, or of a collection together. Often I'll announce a new collection on FaceBook in an album, and from time to time we offer a fabric giveaway via FB, so do 'like' us so you can be in the know about that. 

BUY OF THE WEEK is usually posted at the end of the week. The special prices reflected here are ONLY in this section, regular prices are in the other fabric categories, so you must buy while in this page.  END CUTS are posted by Beth on early in the week.

The Patterns
Sponsored by Vogue/Butterick, this show includes patterns from Vogue and Butterick including pieces from our patterns, our wardrobes and our friends. It is an honor to have garments from Sandra Betzina, Koos Van Den Akker, Barbara Aiken, Nancy Schriber, Vicki Augenstein, Gayle Ortiz and Peggy Abrams.
The Makers & The Garments

Barbara Aiken
Barbara made this two piece outfit in response to a guild challenge, which was to design a 2 piece ensemble using 3 pre-determined cotton fabrics using surface embellishment/manipulation and to make a garment she would wear.  The fabrics are quilting weight cottons and the entire outfit is underlined.  Barbara used an out of print Butterick pattern, but we thought this garment is so spectacular that it should be shown for the world to see and appreciate it. A dancer, Barbara says that her many years of dance training have had a profound impact on her visual work as she focuses on rhythms and textures of movement in her pieces.  

Katherine & Marcy Tilton
Jacket:  Butterick 6106
Tunic: Vogue 9057
Both pieces are straight from the respective pattern envelopes and we love how they work together.  The jacket is two co-ordinating stretch denims and the tunic T is a French viscose/elastine knit.  All sold out.  Currently in stock, two similar co-ordinating denims:  Limoges French Stretch Denim and Haviland French Stretch Denim.  

Peggy Abrams
The simple sculptural lines of the vest take well to the antique velvet.  Peggy is lucky to have a regular sewing workshop class with a skilled teacher.  The vest is beautifully finished inside and out including the lined pockets which add just the right touch of structure and dimension. 

Gayle Ortiz
This stunning vest is made of canvas painted by artist Miles Frode, son of Diane Ericson...talent runs in the family.  The perfect marriage of pattern and fabric, the crisp painterly canvas takes beautifully to the sculptural shape of the vest, and she used just the right combination of raw and finished edges.  Perfect dramatic buttons too!  

Marcy Tilton
Shirt:  Vogue 9089
Tunic:  Vogue 9057
APants:  Vogue 8929
The shirt is made from a French stretch cotton, the tunic a rayon/lycra knit and the pant a stretch cotton (all sold out).  Currently in stock and perfect for the shirt:  Gray Bon Mots French Stretch Cotton and Taupe Bon Mots French Stretch Cotton, or Blue Hibiscus French Stretch Cotton.  The fabrics in our Japanese Fabrics collection are also good choices for the shirt.  Any of our rayon/lycra or bamboo rayon/lycra knit jerseys in our Knit Fabrics collection would be a good choice for the tunic.  Fabric suggestions for the pant:  Guy Noir French Stretch Woven, Madam Gray French Stretch Woven, or Brandywine Italian Stretch Woven, or Eucalyptus Leaf Italian Stretch Woven or Burgundy Moire Stretch Woven.

Katherine & Marcy Tilton
Jacket:  Butterick 6106
Tunic:  Vogue 9057
Katherine used a French stretch woven cotton for this fresh little spring jacket.  Other fabrics suggestions from our current stock:  Black Poppies Stretch Cotton, or Blue Bouquet French Stretch Cotton, or Sand Pebbles French Stretch Cotton or Gray Gardens French Stretch Cotton.

Marcy Tilton
Coat: Vogue 9070
Tunic:  Vogue 9057
On trend Baroque Denim is so right for this euro-style trench coat.  The clear copen blue background is over printed with a black velvet allover baroque pattern, and the base fabric is a suiting weight with just a bit of crosswise stretch and lightly crisp drape...the perfect weight for a duster spring into fall coat.  Our Baroque Velvet Gray Stretch Denim is another good choice as is Dappled Pond Denim.  The tunic uses a fabulous French viscose/elastine digital print, sold out, but we are having a limited run printed especially for us, so stay tuned and watch the website.  

Sandra Betzina
Sleeveless Top & Vest:  Vogue 1443
Pant:  Vogue 1355
Both blouse and vest are made from vintage kimono fabrics.  The blouse uses antique Japanese buttons and the vest uses nearly invisible magnetic closures, a GREAT idea.  While the pattern does include sleeves, Sandra made both top pieces sleeveless with out pattern adjustments.  The pant is Sandra's upscale yoga pant, utterly comfortable and flattering.  Sandra's patterns always have strong silhouettes and the directions are chock full of how-to's and innovative techniques.  Top/Blouse fabric suggestions:  Cars Digital Print French Silk, or Happy Talk Silk, or Blue Trees Silk Crepe du Chine.  Pant fabric suggestions:  Barcelona Black Microfiber Knit, or Barcelona Brown Microfiber Knit or Barcelona Taupe Microfiber Knit.

Vicki Augenstein
Jacket:  Vogue 9070
Pant:  Vogue 8859
For this is a quietly brilliant design, Vicki Augenstein used a combination of recycled men's suitings.  She raided her husband's close for the bindings, using a vintage Jerry Garcia tie, even using the tie lining with his name woven-in as a detail.  

The snail shaped loop conceals snaps.  If you look closely, you can see the tie pattern in the binding.

Marcy & Katherine Tilton
Coat:  Vogue 9070
Skirt:  Vogue 9060
Making a raincoat is fun and SO satisfying.  Nothing like red in the rain!  Red crinkled raincoat worn over a red ponte skirt...these shapes layer very well together and worn with Katherine's pieced collage bag made in wool coating fabrics.  The coat is made from our Red Raincoat fabric.  Check our Rainwear category on the website to see many other fabric choices.  The red wool blend ponte is sold out, but here are just a few suggestions for this fun skirt with fabrics currently on the website:   5 Star Red Ponte, or Craqueleure French Ponte, or John Deed Double Sided Stripe Ponte, or 5 Star Black Ponte...and these are just a few of the many ponte offerings on the website.  

Nancy Schriber
Jacket:  Butterick 5891
Pant:  out of print Katherine Tilton Vogue pattern
Nancy Schriber is a quiet storm.  If you ever have a chance to take one of her workshops, DO it!  Her garments have a strong elegant feeling and are constructed with techniques unique to her with elegant sensitive touches inside and out.  The jacket here is make of vintage kimono fabric she bought from Laura Murray combined with silk dupioni.  The lining is china silk with a vintage Japanese textile used in the back accented with sashiko stitching and a jade bead.  The entire jacket is interlined with cotton flannel, one of Nancy's signature techniques, resulting in a soft hand and cozy malleable garment.  We combined it with Katherine's eclectic collage handbag

Sandra Betzina
Sandra is one of our finest sewing educators and her website, Power Sewing is chock full of educational videos, books, info on Sandra's San Francisco retreats and a peek into Sandra's Closet.  Do subscribe to her marvelous WebTV series where you can find over 130 online classes.  Take one at a time or subscribe for an entire series.  The best of both worlds is to be sewing in your studio while listening to and watching Sandra.  

Katherine Tunic
Marcy Coat & Pants
Coat: Vogue 8934
Pants Vogue 8859
Katherine's new tunic is fun to make, flattering and has two pockets and is a natural for collaging fabrics as shown below.  A big plus is that it works equally well in knits and wovens.  The coat is easy to sew and works well as a raincoat or in a light wool as in the novelty fabric shown here.    Fabric suggestions:  For the tunic, check out our new collection of Cool Combos.  For the Coat:  Boho Felted Wool Flannel, or Dorado Tweed, or Black Dot Jacquard Stretch Cotton, or Barclay Square French Woven.

THE Pant
When we put together the outfits for the fashion show we start with a rack of garments and play to see what works with what.  This is THE pant we used again and again with various tops, jackets and coats.  A narrow pant is something every woman can use in her wardrobe.  Adjust the fit to your figure and fabric.  I've made this pant in knits and wovens, crop it for summer, tweak the pleats, move the back pockets around or eliminate them, adjust the ease depending on the fabric...a stretch woven requires more ease than a 4 way knit.  This is a narrow pant, not a legging.  I recommend cutting 2 inch wide seam allowances on the side seams and add 2" at the waistline so you can adjust the fit as you sew.  The style lends itself to fitting snug or with some ease, depends on your figure and the fabric.  Suggested fabrics for THE pant:  5 Star Storm Gray Ponte, or 5 Star Black Ponte, or Madame Gray French Stretch Woven, or Speaking of Stretch Denim, or nearly ANY of the selection in our Pants Fabrics section on the website. 

Koos van den Akker
Master artist/couturier passed away last week.  He was one of a kind and so was his work.  Koos (rhymes with toes), known as the master of couture collage, considered himself a craftsman and was happiest behind a sewing machine.  First known for the sweaters made for Bill Cosby, he described his work as skirting "a very thin line between absolutely awful and something of genius'.  

We are lucky to have his pattern designs available to us.  The coat in this newly released pattern is light as a feather, single layer, no lining, composed of mostly silk fabrics and flows perfectly from front to back.  Vogue patterns has more Koos designs coming in future pattern releases.  These are  sure to become collectors items.

Video clip showing Koos at work in his studio

Thursday, February 26, 2015

Ready, Set, SEW: Video tour of Marcy Tilton Sew Expo Booth

Come See Us @ Sew Expo Puyallup
Today is the big day!  All set for the Sew Expo opening this morning.  Come see us in booth 830, and come to the Tilton Sisters Vogue/Butterick Fashion Show:  Thursday/Friday at 10:30, Saturday at 2:30.  Check out this little video of our booth, all ready to go.  

Not coming to the expo?  
Watch for a blog over the weekend featuring photos from our fashion show.  

Sunday, February 15, 2015

Beth and Roxy do Vogue 9057

Vogue 9057 as interpreted by Beth and Roxy

Surrounded by fabric during working hours, we all love to go home and sew.  Starting with Vogue 9057, here are some examples of what Beth and Roxy have been doing over the past months.  They often take bits and pieces of fabric from the end of a bolt, so most of the fabrics shown are no longer available.  We all dress to come to work, sometimes funky, sometimes all-out, always fun to ooh and aaah over what we are creating.  Vogue 9057 uses the same block for the armhole/neck sleeve, a good thing to know so you can change and adapt the body of the garment as you want.   
Beth changed the pattern to make a dress, using the armhole/body, changing the shape/length and adapting a V neck, then added a band at the bottom.  
This bolero is a favorite with both Roxy and Beth, and is one of the patterns included in the Alabama Studio Sewing + Design book.  Both Beth and Roxy do a lot of hand sewing inspired by this marvelous book.  You can see how the bolero makes a great layering piece.  Notice that the sleeves are different fabrics, and check out how all the fabrics work together as a whole.  Beth loves to play with combining patterned fabrics, calls it 'tattoo-wear'.
Roxy's beautiful pattern-play version of a twin set uses the same Alabama Chanin bolero over Vogue 9057 as a T-shirt, all in tones of gray, brown, white.  The binding on the bolero is stitched on by hand using a decorative embroidery stitch.  Chic and cool!
Beth used an organic cotton jersey, added a seam to the angle tunic version of Vogue 9057 and sewed the entire garment by hand.  In a past career, Beth made museum quality baskets, and everything she touches is exquisitely made.  Her hand sewing is impeccable, and she wears the clothes she makes for 'everyday'.  PLUS, she walks a mile to and from her hand made home in the woods, over the river, then drives or rides her bike or takes a golf cart down the road to the ArtBarn.  In the Art Barn, Beth cuts fabric and fills orders, is in charge of End Cuts, has made an endless stream of remnants (AKA' rems' ) for the Sewing Expo, and some of you may know her cheerful self from phone calls.  

A peek at the hand stitching detail.
Roxy used scraps of leftover fabric to make her version of Vogue 9057 angle tunic, adding a soft cowl collar.  Roxy lives in Talent, an hour and a half away, so spends 2 nights staying here in Takilma.  She often arrives at the barn at 7 AM so she can get in a couple of hours of sewing before starting work.  Roxy handles the shipping, does the bookkeeping and pitches in with cutting and preparing orders.  In recent weeks she has been arriving early to make Cool Combos....we have made over 300 to take to the Sewing Expo.  
Love how she pieced the collar and the way the patterns and prints combine.
Sleeve 1 detail
The small gray/black dot is our Audrey Dots Bamboo Knit
Sleeve 2 detail 
Roxy made the layering tunic in our Pale Gray Pathways Ponte.  Note that the angle is the opposite of the tunic shown above.
Roxy used a simple flat neck binding on the tunic.
The necklines on the two pieces are designed to nest together and be harmonious.
The layers worn together.  The over-tunic adds a bit of warmth in cool weather
One version of the tunic as shown on the pattern envelope.  Three different fabrics are used.
#1 is the print not he front
#2 is the solid blue sleeve which is also used for the back
#3 is the fine blue/white stripe used for the other sleeve and the neck.

The line drawing shows the different silhouettes and also shows that the neck and armholes are the same for all versions.