Thursday, December 4, 2014

Paris Windows Part 3: Personal Favorites

Post Paris Musings & Inspirations
Back home in wet, rainy Southern Oregon with winter coming on, I've saved some of my personal favorite photos to muse upon.
One the left bank, after lunch at la Palette, strolling up the tiny historic rue de l'Echaude, we kept seeing these charming graffiti-drawings on buildings and here in an empty window.  Turns out they were done by the fashion designer Jean Charles de Castelbajac who has a boutique in the neighborhood on rue St.Peres

a tiny shop located on Place Alphonse Deville, just off rue Cherche Midi, epitomizes avant garde French chic. 
Every woman can use a red jacket or says  Donna Fujii, one of the top color analysts in the world....the red can vary from pure red like this great jacket in the window at Kamille to pale pink, to orange, to purple.  
Marvelous hand stitched sleeve detail....a very nice quality linen muslin is used for lining the sleeve.  The jacket fabric is wool.
Also from Kamille.
A fabulous button treatment.
@Kamille, colored angled buttonholes make a white shirt stand out.
One of my personal design heroes.
Yohji Yamamoto interprets the Chanel jacket.
I love this rendition.
Katherine and I pore over every garment in the shop.  
is a quintessentially French RTW line. and I am a fan.
Feather vest in the window at Lillith
is one of the world's great working designers.
The New York Times describes him as 'one of fashion's most cerebral designers'. 
There was a retrospective Dries von Noten exhibition at the Musee de la Textile et du la Mode at the Louvre.  I went twice and it blew my mind.
Interior of the magnificent Dries von Noten boutique on the left bank in a historic building overlooking the Seine.  If you take a close look at some of the prints, you can see it is the same design as used in the garment shown below.
In the window @Dries von Noten

Hand painted effect print, rather thick silver paint on black....the same print was used in other color ways in other garments. 
is a Taiwanese designer with a tiny shop tucked away in the Palais Royal (one of my favorite places in Paris).  We peeked in the window before the shop opened, then stopped back later in the day to see things firsthand.  A sewist's dream, each piece one of a kind and impeccable, using silks using ancient dying techniques (dyed with tea and lacquered, or dyed with mud or yam).  

Loved the scrunchy wool hats bound in friend Gwen bought one.
Shirts using the tea dyed lacquered silk.
Tiny beads are sewn along the edge of the garments.
In the upper left hand corner, a detail of a scarf made from strips of the lacquered silk and hand stitched together.
The windows at the original shop on the rue St. Honore are always spectacular.
This year, the them was fall, and they had constructed (sewn) abstract tree trunks made from a metallic mesh like window screening, but much finer.  
The items in the window matched the theme on an uber luxe level.
The dress is made from a flat fur.
See the tree trunks sewn from metal mesh in the background
Carrying out the autumn theme is a chain saw and gas can upholstered in real crocodile.
Why?  Because they can.....
on the ritzy Avenue Montaigne
A sumptuous coat.
In France, by law, the prices of things in a shop window must be posted.
A rarity, the sign said to inquire within for the price on the coat.
has a shop in the Palais Royal, where the theme of the moment was
Wandering though the Bon Marche department store, I had a chance to examine this coat up close.
Truly fabulous, the zippers are sewn impeccably to the wool fabric.
The fabric is a beefy wool melton.
Cost around 3000 euros (around $3800.)
A more restrained use of zippers on the coat and on the bag.
In a wonderful off shade of green, more zippers.
A classic blazer power dressing look embellished with zippers.
THE handbag look of the season is Stella McCartney's zipper trimmed bags.
She calls the faux leather 'vegan' leather. 

The real Stella bags are expensive, but we saw knockoffs all over town.
Katherine bought this knockoff tote, also in 'vegan' leather.
outgoing artistic womenswear director at Hermes, has a chic small shop in the north Marais.
Nobody does simplicity and classic chic better than Christophe Lemaire who honed his craft through internships with Yves St. Laurent, Thierry Mugler and Christian La Croix.
Matières à réflexion
This small designer owned/operated shop in the north Marais specializes in hand bags made from vintage motorcycle jackets accented with chain handles.
They also have a small line of clothing done by local designer friends.
Love this drop notch collar jacket.
Pieced jacket in 2 shades of gray
Very nice use of texture, raw and finished edges and leather cuff.

The raw edges are stabilized and worked as carefully as the finished ones.
In the weeks since returning from Paris, I've been working on 2 upcoming Vogue patterns for Fall 2015.  Have completed 2 coats and a pant that will be one package, and am currently working on a pair of knit tunic tops that will be another pattern.  
The Paris clothes I saw are having an impact on my work.  I'm going more slowly, really paying attention to the details at every step.  Spent 2 full days inventing, tweaking and fine tuning a pocket for the coat.  
Meanwhile, I'm adjusting to seeing with fresh eyes....had cataract surgery #1 yesterday, will have surgery #2 in a week.  

The Winner of $50 Fabric Giveaway from Paris Windows Part 2 blog is:
Vivi Ginsberg Smith

Thursday, November 27, 2014

Paris Windows Part #2: Trend Spotting

Trends Reflected in Paris Windows
Keeping an eye out for what catches my eye, I take photos instinctively, and not always of something that I personally 'like'.     
In sorting out the photos from this past month in Paris, certain trends emerged.

The Sweatshirt
I first noticed this in New York in August, where it seemed that every upscale designer had their own version of a sweatshirt.  The trend continues in Paris. 
Maybe because Normcore is working its way up from the street and these designers want their part in the action?
At Gautier, a large embroidered face taken from one of the designer's early sketches.
At Karl Lagerfeld's RTW (less expensive line), the inspiration is his famous, pampered white persian cat, Choupette.
Hand dyed in an upscale shop. 
In the windows at Chanel, artfully ripped and cropped, 
The Puffer Coat
A classic and practical cool weather jacket/coat that appears every fall at every price
Refined cut and details, part jacket, part vest.
Love the pop of color.
At home in Oregon, I have a series of puffer vests that I wear almost every day.
This one would work for my Oregon life.....
This version has an elegant feather collar and cuff.  
The Moto Jacket
A trend that has become a classic.  Available at every price but, in Paris, not often in every size.
In the window at Marina Rinaldi, a division of Max Mara, specializing in larger sizes.
One of the first moto jackets I've seen in a larger size.
Shown worn with a classic Parsian look, black and white polka dots.
The tweed jacket/vest is worn OVER a moto jacket.
A good layering idea! 
The Letterman Jacket
Designers are taking this shape and working it in an interesting mix of fabrics.
The short version of this style is tricky to wear if you have hips, but lengthened into a coat it becomes a fun and wearable look.
The sleeves are padded wool, the body a feminine floral, while the stripes add a touch of the classic jacket.
This genre of floral print is a forward trend too,  influenced by Dries von Noten, the brilliant Belgian designer whose museum show at the Louvre closed recently.  His use of prints and color is sure to be a major influence in seasons to come.  
The Letterman jacket lengthened and made in a plaid.
Plaids and checks are another major trend.
Note the placement of the center front of the jacket on the large scale plaid.
Note too, the use of snaps.
When we visited Botani in NYC this summer, Katherine and I lusted after the commercial snap setting machines and the array of snap colors and designs available.
Same shop as the plaid coat shown above.
Note how the stripes are used as an accent and a reference to the classic letterman jacket.
Layered Shirt Tails & Lace
The effect of a longer shirt or top worn underneath a sweater or top is another look that is fun to play with.  I also saw a surprising number of dickies, sorry no photos of those.  

Patches and Piecing
Reminds me of the art of Japanese Boro
In an upscale men's shop.
 This men's  shop was on the same street as our  hotel.
Katherine and I kept stopping to scrutinize the hand sewing on this grouping of clothes.
Expensive clothes!
Women's jeans, artfully ripped and patched.

Narrow pants, pieced in different fabrics.
hmmm....the front and back on a pant don't have to be the SAME fabric!
Over a year ago, (in the same shop), I photographed a pant with the same seaming detail.
Figured out how to do it and wrote a blog about it.
Click here to read more....
Color Trend:  Chrome Yellow
Clear bright chrome yellow.
Seen all over town, on real people, shown here for a man.
Watch this for spring too, makes a great statement in a coat or a bag.

Still more Paris photos to come!

Make a comment either on this blog or on my FaceBook page.
I'll pick one comment at random relating to THIS POST and give $50 in fabric.
Tell how YOU would interpret any of these trends in your own sewing....  

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The winner of $50 in fabric from the blog Paris Windows #1 is:
Denise from Las Vegas.
Denise, please e-mail me for how to claim your prize:

On this Thanksgiving Day, 
Wishing each of you a creative & satisfying holiday from my studio to yours.