I Love You, Now Change
In response to requests for adding a sleeve & lengthening Vogue 9112, AKA 'The Cirque' dress I made this my off and on studio project over the past few weeks which included a few ups and downs where I took a break and let it rest. After auditioning many possible fabrics, I settled on our 'Greensprings' Japanese cotton double gauze from a recent shipment. (Darn, while I pfutzed with the dress, the fabric sold out. A new bigger than ever shipment of Japanese cottons is coming next week).
Now that I have figured out the sleeve and length, I'm eager to make it again and am considering using a knit or a combo of knits and wovens. In a knit it would hang closer to the body and be very comfortable. Would also make a very cool little black dress, or you could dress it up in a silk or down in a jersey. I finished/faced the hem with a single layer of bias as I wanted all the length possible. Next time I'll cut it an inch or two longer. I also want to try a future version without the collar. In that case, I'd recommend making the neck edge a bit smaller, using the 2 versions I've already made as a guideline, would raise up the back neck and shoulder an inch or so, as-is it is a pretty wide boat neck which might work for some.
|I lengthened the dress 5", adding the length at the hem which worked well, though I missed adding on the center front section, so had to piece it. See the fix in the video below.|
Vogue 9112 as shown on the pattern envelope. I used light/mid weight cottons for these versions.
|The fabric in this version uses our Foggy Gray Ikat from Thankoon, still in stock.|
|This version uses a Japanese seersucker, sold out.|
The first attempt at adding a sleeve did not work. The theory in adding a sleeve is that you must be sure the armhole of the garment and the sleeve cap will work together. I found a shirt pattern with almost the same shape and measurement as the dress and cut the sleeve in a ¾ length. Basted it in and turned under the hem in an elbow length and ¾ length. In spite of the theory, it was clunky, did not work, and I did not like it on me or on the dress form.
Ripped off the sleeves and tossed the dress in the washing machine, then hung it outside to dry.
It softened nicely, whew.....back on track.
It softened nicely, whew.....back on track.
After sorting through a batch of different white/ivory meshes, I decided on this Ivory Point d'eEsprit Mesh for the sleeves. It is the right color, the faint dots blended with the pattern and texture of the dress fabric.
|For this sleeve variation, I got out my dress pattern pieces one more time and went searching for a knit sleeve pattern with a similar armhole. Vogue 9057, turned out to be a good match, so I cut the sleeves double layer, to elbow length with the hem cut on the fold. See my tutorial on cutting double layer knits for more details. Basted the sleeves in place, and, voila! Success!!|
|Took an additional ½" tuck at center back so the collar would stand away and not be so high.|
The Finished Dress
Video: Add a sleeve & length to Vogue 9112,
plus tips for piecing.
Right now, I'm immersed in preparing sample garments and step-outs for a new Craftsy class. Done in tandem with Katherine, we're filming at the end of July for an early October release. The working title is The Artful T, and we each have made a half dozen new T-shirts for the class.
Two new Vogue patterns for summer 2016 are on the design table, due by September 1. The online fabric store is hopping, keep running out of room, so we're building a bigger receiving warehouse plus improved photo studio. I'm in the current photo studio most afternoons photographing fabrics to post on the website.
I've fallen head over heels in love with photography, have a wonderful tutor helping me with the tech end, and am still absorbing all I learned at the fantastic Paris photo workshop last month, more on this in a future blog. In the studio, I've been enjoying listening & watching Craftsy classes on photography while I design and sew. My current Craftsy class is Creative Photography with George Lange, it is excellent. Now the camera goes with me everywhere.
Later this summer I'm off on a buying trip, but for months I've been stockpiling fall fabrics and will begin posting those in July. The new fall Vogue patterns are set to be released in mid July. I've seen advanced photos of my two upcoming fall patterns and am excited to share them with you. The pieces (coat+pant and seamed tunics), all work together making a perfect travel or core wardrobe. Off on a road trip to San Francisco to celebrate her birthday. We have plans to visit some of our favorite bay area designers to pick up fabric for the marcytilton.com fabric store, and I'll be posting new fabrics from the road.
Please share your projects and send photos to:
Happy Summer from my studio to yours,