Vogue 8839: I Love You, Now Change......

The new Fall Vogue patterns hit the internet last week, including 2 new patterns from both myself and Katherine. Some of the sewing bloggers are having fun with the styling of the photography, (a change from past pattern photo shoots). There are a number of things in the new collection that are on my wish list....Katherine's pants are next in line, and I want to make her fabulous shirt, and I love the Issey Miyke coat.....but FIRST, I was inspired to whip up a cardi to wear right now using my new pattern, Vogue 8839.  I really like the way Vogue styled the pattern photos, showing the slouchy knit sweater-jacket with jeans....and even a cowboy hat! Also love that they show the longer version belted, a great look if you have the long lean figure for that. 

This was fast, fun and very satisfying to make in one of our new fabulous Japanese cotton double weave knits. I love this pattern...it is so simple to make, mostly just straight sewing, but I changed it to suit the fabric and use the cool selvedges. Took about 3 1/2 yards of fabric because the narrow knit only has selvedge on one side....I think they make the fabric in a wider width, then cut in half lengthwise to be able to hand print the design print which is added in a second run after the fabric is constructed, that extra step plus the quality of the fabric itself and that it is imported from Japan explains why it is so expensive. This exquisite cotton knit comes in three color ways: gray, blue and creamy ivory. I used the gray Japanese Cotton Arcata Knit

The Changes:

• Cut the fabric on the cross grain.  There is not much stretch in the cross grain, so I'd recommend adding 1"total at center back and cutting the side seams with a 1" seam allowance to allow for fitting.  
• Made the shorter version and eliminated the bottom bands, so lengthened the front and back pieces the width of the band, and used the selvedge at the hem edge.
• Made the sleeves 3/4 length, had to do the math by tissue fitting.  
• Filled in the 'gap' on the lower front edge of the center band by stitching a scrap of the selvedge along the edge.  
• No serging, just plain seams, this fabric does not ravel.  
• Made the collar double, used the selvedge on the top layer, trimmed the under layer so the selvedge would show, used a raw edge and edge stitched in place.  
• The reverse side of the fabric is warm white, like the selvedge, so I used the selvedge to tie the front and back sides of the fabric together....the collar and edge 'waterfall' and the underside of the fabric shows, so that is part of the overall design.
• LOVE having the pockets in a cardi...they are surprisingly easy to make in a knit, the fabric is very forgiving