Auditioning Fabrics for the Miyake Coat Project

I considered different fabrics for the Miyake coat, went through my closet, my stash and to the ArtBarn, then I got questions from people about what fabrics would work, so here is a grouping of current fabrics that would work for the coat.  I pulled out some favorites, put them out in the studio to consider. My intention in making this coat is to have fun while making it, and that it will fit in with my existing wardrobe and my life...and if it makes the cut to go to Paris, all the better!

So many fabrics, so little time.  

BLACK or GRAY
Black is a no brainer, and for a while the top runner was our Black Pebble Stretch Woven which could even work unlined, like the bit of texture and that it would be a good basic to wear now, casual good for travel.  Cashmere would be fantastic, so I played around with our Mara Cashmere...the weight is right, there is nothing better to wear than cashmere lined with silk, but after doing the fall closet clearing, discovered that I already have a black cashmere coat.  I considered ponte too...in this case it would be like a sweater coat and I'd tweak the pattern to make it unlined.

Top row L to R: Mara Cashmere Blend, Metro Italian Tweed, Silver Shadow Rainwear

Bottom row, L to R:  Afton Stripe Ponte, Black Pebble Stretch Woven, Mega Houndstooth Italian Coating 

BROWN or ORANGE
Brown can be such a good alternative to black.  Chocolate Decadence from St. John is a dark dark brown, just the right weight, and would show off the silhouette and lines to perfection.  I also auditioned our Hermes Orange Flannel which would be dramatic and smashing...and would fit the bill of being my version of a red coat.  I considered the Emerald City rainwear, maybe using the back black side which is not pure black, but has faint green undertones.

Top row L to R:  Bobbi Brown Stretch Woven,  Chocolate Decadence from St. John,  Muir Woods Missoni Suiting

Bottom row L to R:  Rob Roy Ponte, Hermes Orange Flannel, Emerald City Rainwear

TWEED...JACQUARD...TAFFETA
Fall always means tweed, and this coat is a natural for this classic fabric.  Jacquard would be unexpected and beautiful, and a jacket weight taffeta with woven in metal would develop an appealing overall crinkle.  Any of the fabrics shown below would work.

Top row L to R:  Rue Cambon Chanel Tweed, Midnight Garden French Jacquard, Copper Burgundy Metal Taffeta

Bottom row L to R:  Max Mara Rainbow Italian Tweed, Red Queen French Jacquard,  Chatelaine Tweed

In the end, I picked a fabric from my stash...one of those 'special' fabrics I'd been saving, a black and ivory check wool  that has been shibori dyed.  It will have a bit of drama and will go with my basic fall black/gray with orange accents wardrobe.

Bias Sleeve

True to Miyake form, there are some unique things about this pattern....the front sleeve is cut on the bias.  Bias has its own set of rules, one being that once it is cut, it stretches, and grows.  I'd read on another blog that someone had the experience of having her sleeve stretch and grow.  

Here is how to prevent it.  I've done a lot of research and writing and teaching about bias, this is just a quick bite of bias info as it relates to this pattern.  This is a multi step process:  Cut fat side seam allowances, press to remove the stretch (this stabilizes the bias), then re-cut the sleeve and handle with care until it is sewn to the other piece.  

Because the sleeve will grow in length, cut 2" seam allowances at the side seams and 1/2" at the top edges as shown below:

Press to remove the stretch.  

I pressed the two layers together using a gentle, consistent stretching of the fabric while pressing/steaming.  This is NOT a tug of war, but a finesse to set the bias and prevent farther stretching while wearing.  

This photo shows how much the fabric stretched.  Now I re-cut the piece to the actual size of the pattern.  

Now for the sewing, a little bit every day.  Just for fun, think I'll do bound buttonholes, and those will go in first!

Stay tuned......and pipe in if you are sewing along too.