On the road with the Miyake coat

In Santa Fe with Diane Ericson.  

We're having some R&R before Design Outside the Lines kicks into gear on Tuesday.  

Lunch AND dinner both in one day at Cafe Pasqual.  Nothing succeeds like excess!

The coat is coming along on the journey too, I want to share this in the workshop.  

So far, the shell of the coat and lining shell are sewn.  I used a lining from my stash, is a stretch poly that has the look and feel of a heavy silk crepe du chine.  Picked a stretch lining as the wool is slightly stretchy because it was pleated to do the shibori dyeing and some of that residual pleating remains...I am doing my best to keep in this texture as I press.  I also considered a poly taffeta for the lining, and think that would have worked too...would have given the coat a bit more structure.  

One of the unexpected pleasures in this project is remembering how delicious it is to work with wool.  The great Santa Fe clothing stores are filled with gorgeous wool clothes and in spite of the heat I am getting in the mood for more wool in my wardrobe.  After lunch at Cafe Pasqual, we stopped by The Santa Fe Weaving Gallery for a visit and to see the beautiful hand made artisan clothing and scarves (also some cutting edge clothing and scarves from Japanese designers).  

Back to the coat:  

My intuition kept telling me that the collar as is in the pattern is somehow not right...not only too high, but too crisp.  I want something softer that will be warm and frame the face, but not constricting.  

I also kept hearing the words of Diane Ericson that 'bias collars are always better'.  Diane does a fantastic teaching segment on this topic with a series of samples that always inspires me.  

So...I changed the pattern to fit my revised neckline, cut the collar on the bias (using the same method as for the bias sleeve).  

I also changed the facing to a wider bias strip.  Know that in doing this I am flying by the seat of my pants and am open to making another collar version if this one is not right.  

Bias collar and facing ready to sew.  NO turned under and stitched edges as the pattern recommends.  It seems too fussy, would never be done in manufacture and too THICK.

View from wrong side up.  The facing edge is sewn, turned and pressed and top stitched.  The raw edge at the lower edge of the photo will be sewn to the coat neckline.

Testing to see how the rolled effect will be...in the finished garment the collar will be rolled a couple of times and then stitched in place.

This gives an idea of the width and thickness of the finished collar....the seam allowance is at the bottom.  I do a lot of pfutzing and testing like this before nailing the collar down.

More to come....as time and internet connection permit....off into the land of chilies!