Sewn from the Heart

3 big projects in the studio.

I'm simultaneously working on a new pattern for Vogue for Summer 2013, which is coming along nicely after a week of bumps in the road.  Packing and preparing for Design Outside the Lines Taos, all the boxes ship in a week, and there are lots of new fabrics waiting for photography and posting.  In the midst of all of this, I simply HAD to do some sewing that relates purely to heeding my own heart...I have been drawn to making a coat, the new Issey Miyake, Vogue 1320 pattern.

There is a lot to like.  First, it is a Miyake and even though he is retired with a new designer at the helm, the aesthetic remains, and there is always a sweet surprise in the design.  I like the length (long enough wear with a tunic or over slim lined pants or skirt, even over a slim lined dress), the armhole is deep enough to go over layers, and I love the curved yoke and 2 piece sleeve with the front section cut on the bias.  Graceful, functional, sculptural and interesting....the roll collar is unique, even though the neckline and collar look a big high on the neck.  One of my top goals in sewing for myself is to make clothes that I will actually wear, another is to bring in new pieces that work with what I already have.  With a coat, it means that I can wear it with pieces already in the closet or in the studio pipeline.  I have a few fabrics in mind, keeping the options open.  

So....the first thing to do is tissue fit it to get an idea of how it looks on me.  Pulled the main pattern pieces out of the envelope and measured at the bust and hip to get an idea of the fit.

I went with an out of the box size 18...wanted plenty of ease while keeping the shaped silhouette. 

Pinned together the pattern pieces on the seam line.  LOTS of pins, placed very carefully right along the seam line.  My dress form is a size 12, smaller than me,  but I can get a good visual of how the pieces fit together and look on the body.  

Put on the good underwear and basic black for the try-on.  First I used a mirror,  then Katherine helped with her feedback when she took the photos. 

Center front and center back are lined up.  I put a pin with a glass head right at the back waist so I can 'feel' where the waist on the pattern relates to my waist.  It was fine.

With the sleeve pinned in place.

Two things stand out at this point:  

1.  The sleeves seem too long, but shortening the sleeves about 5/8" is a standard for me, so that is ok.

2.  The neckline seems too tight and too high, so I will alter that in the pattern and will check the neck fit and front shape/depth when sewing, so I won't cut the collar until I figure that out.  

Other than that, it is good to cut!

Anyone out there interested in sewing along with this pattern?  

Next:   to choose the fabric.....

Raincoat?  Basic black cotton with interesting texture? Wool?

Bold?  Subtle?  Neutral?  Color?